The Mittakam Divers - นักประดาน้ำ ชุมชนมิตรคาม
The Chao Phraya River is the largest watershed in Thailand, and it has been the lifeblood of Bangkok since its early days. For hundreds of years, its murky waters have been used to transport various goods from the heart of the country to the Gulf of Thailand. In the northern part of the city, on the riverbanks, one of the last remaining neighborhoods on stilts can be found. Two brothers, Thawit and his older sibling Chalong, grew up in the Mittakam community and inherited the profession of divers from their father, who was one of the pioneers in the business. They began their careers at the ages of 6 and 7. It was a terrifying start, and the high pressure often caused their ears to bleed. They now share the boat with fellow diver Banyat, who has also been a diver for more than 40 years, along with a father and son from the neighboring house.
Their equipment is far from modern-day scuba gear, and it offers little help in their highly dangerous job. The visibility is almost zero, the riverbed is filled with sharp objects, and strong currents make the work challenging. The helmets they use are handmade, and they are now transitioning from steel to stainless steel to prevent rust. It's also crucial to work in pairs to keep an eye on the old diesel generator that pumps air to the divers.
The crew typically starts early in the morning when the water is calmer, often diving near temples or markets. They search for various ancient relics and frequently find old coins dating even back to the Rattanakosin era. During the COVID-19 pandemic, their income improved because there was almost no boat traffic, allowing them to explore new, previously undiscovered locations. In addition to diving for treasures, they often take on jobs to repair houses and buildings along the riverbank. However, these opportunities are becoming rarer as riverside communities are being demolished.
In recent years, local authorities have been evicting and demolishing various riverside communities, and now it's Mittakam's turn. Their father's house, who recently passed away, was one of the first to go, and the entire community is now set to leave before April 2024. The community has together applied for a bank loan along with minor financial support from the government, enabling them to purchase new land further up the river in Nonthaburi.
Thawit has a deep affection for antiques, and his house is filled with treasures he has collected over the years in various forms and colors. His wife was initially skeptical but has begun to appreciate the historic items. All the chipped bowls he can't sell are now being used as flower pots in front of the small wooden house. His bellowed parrot flew away doing a monsoon storm a few days ago, perhaps a sign of what to come. The future is very uncertain for the community, especially the divers, as they won't have a place to dock their longtail boats since the new land is located away from the river. "I don't want to move. I want to continue this profession forever" says Thawit.
